Historical Clothing

A bibliography of sources for the design and construction of clothing throughout history.

Compiled by Jacqueline Church Simonds, author of Captain Mary, Buccaneer

Most items listed may be purchased on Amazon.com. Just click on the title to go to Amazon and place your order.

Ancient World	Costuming	Costume Rendering/Drawing	Dark Ages European Clothing
European and American Clothes–17th & 18th c.	European and American Clothes–19th c.	European and American Clothes–20th c.	Film and TV Costumes
General Studies	Hair Styles	Hats / Millinery	Medieval European Clothing
Old West (American)	Piratical Gear	Pricing Guides	Reenactors
Renaissance European Clothing	Shoes	Undergarments	Uniforms (pre-20th c.)
Vintage (20th c.)	Weapons	Weddings	World Clothing

World Clothing

Africa	Arabic	Asia, General	Celtic
China	Egypt	India	Indonesia
Japan	Korea	Mexico & Central America	Morocco
Native American	Turkey

Africa

	African Canvas: The Art of West African Women
	Imazighen : The Vanishing Traditions of Berber Women
	Ndebele: The Art of an African Tribe

by Margaret Courtney-Clarke. Absolutely beautiful books documenting the traditional decorative art of these vanishing tribes.

African Designs of the Congo, Nigeria, the Cameroons and the Guinea Coast by Caren Caraway

African Designs of the Congo. Basic information about artistic design.

African Designs from Traditional Sources by Geoffrey Williams. 200 designs from all over Africa, taken from carvings and other art.

African Printed Textile Designs by Diane V. Horn.

The Art of African Textiles by Duncan Clarke. A good primer on design, despite production flaws.

Bodywork: Dress As Cultural Tool (African Social Studies Series) by Janet Andrewes

Bogolan: Shaping Culture through Cloth in Contemporary Mali by Victoria L. Rovine Focuses on Mali “mudcloth”—black or brown geometric designs on cloth.

Hair in African Art and Culture by Roy Sieber. The exhibition catalog from the very popular Museum of African Art in New York City.

North African Textiles by Christopher Spring, Julie Hudson.

Printed and Dyed Textiles from Africa by John Gillow. An overview of that continent’s patterns. Also by Gillow

African Textiles

Silk in Africa by Chris Spring, Julie Hudson. This fabulous collection is from the British Museum. The rich tradition of African silk weaving is depicted in clothing for royalty down through a Madagascar burial shroud.

Traditional African Designs by Gregory Mirow. Clip Art.

Wrapped in Pride: Ghanaian Kente and African American Identity (UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History Textile Series, No. 2) by Doran H. Ross, Raymond Aaron Silverman, Agbenyega Adedze. Traces the history of kente cloth from its Asante beginnings to its importance in American African descendants.

Zulu Beaded Chain Techniques (Contemporary Beadwork Series) by Diane Fitzgerald. Excellent designs and thorough instructions in how to create these traditional designs.

More Zulu Beadwork

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Arabic

Arab Dress a Short History : From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times (Themes in Islamic Studies, Vol 2) by Yedida Kalfon Stillman. Wonderful pictures and details, but spotty regarding the 20th c.

Arabic Geometrical Pattern and Design by Jules Bourgoin. A good beginners’ book on the subject.

Costumes and Customs from the Arab World by Nahda Salah. An overview of the customs that shape the costumes and vice versa.

Sufi Symbolism : The Nurbakhsh Encyclopedia of Sufi Terminology (Farhang-E Nurbakhsh) : Veils and Clothing, Government, Economics and Commerce, Medicine by Javad, Dr. Nurbakhsh

Veil : Modesty, Privacy and Resistance by Fadwa El Guindi Considers all aspects of the veil in modern Arabic society.

Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East by Jennifer Scarce

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Asia, General

Arts and Crafts of Turkestan by Johannes Kalter. Explains that the colors and cut of women’s clothing denote age, marital status and rank. This is just one aspect of the broad ranging book.

Asian Costumes and Textiles from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama : The Zaira and Marcel Mis Collection by Mary Hunt Kahlenberg. A big coffee table book with an ambitious plan: covering all “Asia" which includes India, the Middle East and the Near East. Most notable omission is Vietnamese culture.

Flowers, Dragons and Pine Trees : Asian Textiles in the Collection of the Spencer Museum of Art by Mary M. Dusenbury Beautiful examination of this collection.

From Desert and Oasis: Arts of the People of Central Asia by George W. O'Bannon. Covers the exhibition at the Georgia Museum of Art.

Ready-To-Use Oriental Designs : 495 Different Copyright-Free Designs Printed One Side by Maggie Kate. Clip Art

Silken Threads : A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam by Young Yang Chung The authoritative over-view by the acknowledged master of the subject.

Through The Thread Of Time: Southeast Asian Textiles, The James H W Thompson Foundation Symposium Papers by Jane Puranananda 9748225763

Traditional Textiles of Central Asia by Janet Harvey. Covers the tribal arts, but is not aimed at the novice.

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Celtic

159 Celtic Designs by Amy L. Lusebrink. Clip Art.

Celtic Art : The Methods of Construction by George Bain. An excellent book showing Celtic/Pictish design. Not for the beginner.

Celtic Borders by Aidan Meehan

Also by Meehan:

	Celtic Alphabets
	Celtic Design : Animal Patterns
	Celtic Design : A Beginner's Manual
	Celtic Design : The Dragon and the Griffin : The Viking Impact
	Celtic Design : Knotwork : The Secret Method of the Scribes
	Celtic Design : Illuminated Letters

Maze Patterns Each of these books starts out with the basic design and then adds elaboration. An excellent source of history and design.

Celtic Cut & Use Stencils : 61 Full-Size Stencils Printed on Durable Stencil Paper by C. O. Spinhoven

Also by Spinhoven

	Celtic Borders Laser-Cut Plastic Stencils
	Celtic Charted Designs
	Celtic Stencil Designs.

Quick and easy for those in a hurry.

Celtic Designs : 96 Different Copyright-Free Designs by Mallory Pearce. Clip Art.

Celtic and Old Norse Designs by Courtney Davis

Also by Davis:

	The Celtic Art Source Book Celtic Borders & Decoration
	Celtic Dance Costumes Iron-On Transfer Patterns
	Celtic Designs and Motifs
	Celtic Iron-On Transfer Patterns Celtic Mandalas
	Key Patterns and Animals : A Celtic Art Workbook
	Knotwork and Spirals : A Celtic Art Workbook

Good patterns.

Mandalas of the Celts by Klaus Holitzka

Ready-To-Use Celtic Designs : 96 Different Copyright-Free Designs Printed One Side by Mallory Pearce. Clip Art.

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China

Chinese Clothing and Adornment in Various Dynasties (Chinese With English Insert) by Shang Hai Opera School (Special Order).

	Chinese Clothing : An Illustrated Guide;
	Chinese Dragon Robes (Images of Asia);
	A Collector's Guide to Chinese Dress Accessories (Special Order)
	Mandarin Squares : Mandarins and Their Insignia
	Traditional Chinese Clothing in Hong Kong and South China, 1840-1980

by Valery M. Garrett. These excellent books by a leader in the field of Chinese textile and design are a must for any investigation into Chinese clothing.

Chinese Clothing and Theatrical Costumes by Tonildi Franco.

Chinese Dress by Verity Wilson, Ian Thomas

Chinese Decorative Design by Dept. of Textiles, Fu Jen Catholic Univ Clothing (Special Order).

Chinese Silk: A Cultural History by Shelagh Vainker Covers the role of silk in Chinese society from the Neolithic ages to the 20th Century.

Clothed to Rule the Universe : Ming to Qing Dynasty Textiles at the Art Institute of Chicago by John M. Vollmer. A wonderful book for three things: extensive photos of this rare & beautiful collection; an essay on how what one wore delineated one's status in various dynasties and; a "checklist" of all the articles worn with each costume.

Every Step a Lotus: Shoes for Bound Feet by Dorothy Ko. Well researched, with explanations and illustrations.

Imperial Wardrobe by Gary Dickinson, Linda Wrigglesworth.

Miao Textiles from China by Gina Corrigan. Covers a Chinese minority whose only visual art is their festival costumes.

Ruling from the Dragon Throne : Costumes of the Qing Dynasty 1644-1911 by John E. Vollmer. Details the designs and construction of the Manchu royal clothing.

Secret Splendors of the Chinese Court: Qing Dynasty Costume from the Charlotte Hill Grant Collection by Dieter Kuhn, Emmac Bunker A Denver Art Museum catalog.

Silks for Thrones and Altars: Chinese Costumes and Textiles by John E. Vollmer

Splendid Slippers: A Thousand Years of an Erotic Tradition by Beverley Jackson. Another excellent book on foot binding and the shoes that were worn.

Symbols and Rebuses in Chinese Art: Figures, Bugs, Beasts, and Flowers by Fang Jing Pei An A to Z dictionary.

Traditional Chinese Designs by Stanley Appelbaum. Basic artistic design.

Traditional Chinese Textile Designs in Full Color by Tung-Pei Hsi Ch'U Yen Shiu Yuan, Hua Lu. Beautiful full-color reproductions of 60+ designs.

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Egypt

Ancient Egyptian Cut and Use Stencils by Theodore Menten

Ancient Egyptian Designs for Artists and Craftspeople by Eva Wilson. Artistic designs from the simple to the more elaborate.

Egyptian Designs by Carol Belanger Grafton. Basic artistic design.

Egyptian Textiles by Rosalind Hall

Ready-To-Use Egyptian Motifs : 370 Different Copyright-Free Designs Printed One Side by Maggie Kate. Clip Art

Pharonic Egyptian Clothing (Studies in Textile and Costume History, Vol 2) by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

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India

Clothing

Clothing Matters : Dress and Identity in India by Emma Tarlo How Indian dress has evolved since the 19th c. focusing on caste, custom and Gandhian influences.

Costumes, Textiles & Jewellery of India by Vandana Bhandari A beautiful, Must Have book for those interested in the evolution and social significance of Indian clothing.

Costumes and Textiles of Royal India by Ritu Kumar An exhaustive examination on the textiles used in 1000 years of royal dress.

Embroidery from India and Pakistan by Sheila Paine Covers the needlework created by women for doweries and ceremonial wear.

The Sari by Linda Lynton A great over-view of the development of the sari.

The Sari by Mukulika Banerjee, Daniel Miller Well-illustrated guide to this important garment.

Sari to Sarong: Five Hundred Years of Indian and Indonesian Textile Exchange by Robyn Maxwell Chronicles the ideas exchanged in textiles over 1000 years between these two cultures.

Silken Threads : A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam by Young Yang Chung The authoritative over-view by the acknowledged master of the subject.

Textile Arts of India: Kokyo Hatanaka Collection by Indo Senshoku Bijutsu, Kokyo Hatanaka. Translated from the Japanese.

Traditional Indian Textiles by John Gillow Covers the entire range of India from the commercial to the hand-made

Design

250 Stencil Designs from India by K. Prakash A misleading title, as there are no actual stencils in this book. But good artwork that you can start patterning your designs on.

5,000 Designs and Motifs from India by Ajit Mookerjee An interesting range of designs from different areas of India. Be forewarned that many of the patterns are reproduced quite small—but you could probably remedy this with a scanner or copier.

Decorative Flower and Leaf Designs by Richard Hofmann Patterns range from Colonial to historical.

Folk Designs and Motifs from India by R. M. Lehri

Paisleys and Other Textile Designs from India by K. Prakash Some nice designs, but not the range one could hope for.

Mehndi

The Art of Mehndi by Sumita Batra A colorful coffee table book of the Hollywood fad.

Mehndi : The Art of Henna Body Painting by Carine Fabius, Michele M. Garcia A beginners book explaining the history, basic designs and how to concoct henna cones.

Mehndi : The Timeless Art of Henna Painting by Loretta Roome This well-illustrated book discusses the history and technique of this body art.

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Indonesia

Batak Cloth and Clothing : A Dynamic Indonesian Tradition by Sandra A. Niessen Examines the changes that have occurred in the late 19th early 20th c. in N. Sumatra.

Indonesian Folk Motifs by Peter Linenthal Hundreds of designs from Bali, Irian Jaya, Java and more. Includes Batik, Ikat, Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet) and Topeng (masks) designs.

Sari to Sarong: Five Hundred Years of Indian and Indonesian Textile Exchange by Robyn Maxwell Chronicles the ideas exchanged in textiles over 1000 years between these two cultures.

Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation by Robyn Maxwell, Mattiebelle Gittinger. Some examples never before seen.

Traditional Indonesian Textiles by John Gillow An overview of these dynamic lands’ textiles.

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Japan

Design

The Colors of Japan by Sadao Hibi, Kunio Fukuda. A coffee table book on the importance of color, without much detail.

The Elements of Japanese Design : A Handbook of Family Crests, Heraldry & Symbolism by John W. Dower An excellent and scholarly work on this subject.

Japanese Design Motifs; 4260 Illustrations of Heraldic Crests by Matsuya Originally published in 1913 by a company who sold these patterns.

Symbols of Japan : Thematic Motifs in Art and Design by Merrily C. Baird. An encyclopedia on what the symbols in Japanese art mean.

Traditional Japanese Stencil Designs by Clarence Hornung

Treasury of Japanese Designs and Motifs for Artists and Craftsmen by Carol Belanger Grafton 360 Copyright-free designs adapted by the author from traditional designs. Heraldic Crests.

Kimonos

The Book of Kimono by Norio Yamanaka. Written by an expert in the field, this book covers the history, accessories and proper behavior when wearing a kimono.

The Japanese Kimono by Hugo Munsterberg A disappointing book in that most pictures are b/w, but does devote much time to Kabuki kimonos.

Kimono by Paul van Riel A coffee table book showing all phases of kimono use and wear plus how to put one on and accessories (like footwear).

Kimono : Fashioning Culture by Liza Crihfield Dalby An excellent book for creating and understanding this crucial garment.

Textiles

Japanese Textiles : In the Victoria and Albert Museum;
Japanese Country Textiles by Victoria and Albert Museum

Silken Threads : A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam by Young Yang Chung The authoritative over-view by the acknowledged master of the subject.

Textile Art of Japan by Sunny Yang, Rochelle M. Narasin. A good beginner’s guide.

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Korea

Hanbok : The Art of Korean Clothing by Sunny Yang. Covers the history of this much-neglected country. Not enough illustrations and not clearly dated (one period mentioned covered 1000 years).

Rapt in Colour : Korean Textiles and Costumes of the Chosen Dynasty by Claire Roberts A beautiful book showing how women, banned from any occupation, turned to clothing as an expression of their abilities.

Silken Threads : A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam by Young Yang Chung The authoritative over-view by the acknowledged master of the subject.

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Mexico & Central America (Aztec & Mayan)

Aztec and Other Mexican Indian Designs by Caren Caraway

Also by Caraway: The Mayan Design Book Basic information of artistic design.

Design Motifs of Ancient Mexico by Jorge Enciso Originally published in 1947, Prominent Mexicans like Diego Rivera contributed pieces for the author to illustrate and explain. Still one of the best books in the field.

Also by Enciso: Designs from Pre-Columbian Mexico

The Highland Maya : Patterns of Life and Clothing in Guatemala by Roland Bunch

Indian Clothing Before Cortes: Mesoamerican Costumes from the Codices (Civilization of the American Series, Vol 156) by Patricia Rieff Anawalt. Out of print but available used.

Mexican Indian Folk Designs : 252 Motifs from Textiles by Irmgard Weitlaner-Johnson. Clip Art

Maya Culture and Costume : A Catalogue of the Taylor Museum's E. B. Ricketson Collection of Guatemalan Textiles by Christine Conte An in depth view of one collection.

Maya Textiles of Guatemala : The Gustavus A. Eisen Collection, 1902 by Margot Blum Schevill A beautiful, well-researched book from the Berkley Hearst Museum.

Textiles from Guatemala by Ann Hecht

Textiles from Mexico (Fabric Folios) by Chloe Sayer. An excellent overview from the British Museum.

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Morocco

Moroccan Silk Designs in Full Color by Lucien Vogel A good beginners’ book on the subject.

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Native American

American Indian Beadwork by W. Ben Hunt Shows many patterns from the 1800s with original colors.

American Indian Design and Decoration by Leroy H. Appleton Should be titled Indians of the Americas as it covers more than N. America.

Authentic Indian Designs : 2500 Illustrations from Reports of the Bureau of American Ethnology by Mana Naylor Covers designs from “pre-history" to the mid-20th.

Indian Designs by David Villasenor, Jean Villasenor Black and white animal designs, each with tribe and some info noted.

Beauty, Honor, and Tradition : The Legacy of Plains Indian Shirts by Joseph D. Horse Capture, George P. Horse Capture This fabulous book, written by museum archivists, details the construction and history of the honor shirts.

Buckskin & Buffalo : The Artistry of the Plains Indians by Colin F. Taylor An overview of Plains Indian clothing in American and European museums.

Ceremonial Costumes of the Pueblo Indians: Their Evolution, Fabrication, and Significance in the Prayer Drama by Virginia More Roediger. Excellent reference on Pueblo, Hopi and Zuni ceremonial clothing.

Cherokee Dance: Ceremonial Dances & Dance Regalia by Donald Sizemore.

The Complete Guide to Traditional Native American Beadwork : A Definitive Study of Authentic Tools, Materials, Techniques, and Styles by Joel Monture. Far from being "definitive," this nicely illustrated book does have some good presentations.

Dress Clothing of the Plains Indians by Ronald Peter Koch

Encyclopedia of American Indian Costume by Josephine Paterek A wonderful overview with over 100 photos. But there are no dates, so it is unclear when the details described occurred (which would have changed drastically with European contact).

How to Make Cherokee Clothing by Donald Sizemore Patterns for men and women. Also ear piercing and tatooing.

Indian Bead-Weaving Patterns : Chain-Weaving Designs and Bead Loom Weaving-An Illustrated 'How-To' Guide by Horace Goodhue Hundred of patterns useful for the beginner on up through the expert.

Indian Crafts and Skills : An Illustrated Guide for Making Authentic Indian Clothing, Shelters, and Ornaments by David Montgomery

Indian Clothing of the Great Lakes, 1740-1840 by Sheryl Hartman. Interesting and detailed book. Contains patterns for replication.

The Indian, or mound builder; the Indians, mode of living, manners, customs, dress, ornaments, etc., before the white man came to the country, together with a list of relics gathered by the author. by Thomas Beckwith A reprint of a 1911 title.

Material Culture of the Chumash Interaction Sphere : Clothing, Ornamentation, and Grooming by Travis Hudson, Thomas C. Blackburn

Ready-To-Use North American Indian Motifs : 391 Different Copyright-Free Designs Printed One Side by Maggie Kate. Clip Art

Native American Beadwork : Traditional Beading Techniques for the Modern-Day Beadworker by Georg J. Barth, Bill Holm A thorough book on techniques and patterns for beadwork.

Native American Mandalas by Klaus Holitzka

Northwest Indian Designs by Caren Caraway

Also by Caraway:

	Eastern Woodland Indian Designs
	Plains Indian Designs
	Southeastern Woodland Indian Designs
	Southwest Indian Designs

Basic information on artistic design.

Pride of the Indian Wardrobe: Northern Athabaskan Footwear (Batashoe Museum Foundation). Out of print but available used.

Robes of white shell and sunrise : personal decorative arts of the native American : [catalog of an exhibition] Denver Art Museum, November 9, 1974-January 19, 1975 by Richard Conn. Out of print but available used.

Sinews of Survival: The Living Legacy of Inuit Clothing by Betty Kobayashi Issenman

Traditional Dress : Knowledge and Methods of Old-Time Clothings by Adolf Hungry Wolf How clothing was constructed, the influence of visions/dreams on design. With photos of clothing, beadwork and hair styles.

Traditional Indian Bead and Leather Crafts by Monte Smith, Michele Van Sickle, Ronald Ted Smith A good primer on native leather crafting.

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Turkey

Authentic Turkish Designs by Azade Akar A good beginners’ book on the subject.

Ottoman Embroidery by Marianne Ellis, Jennifer Mary Wearden By two curators from the Victoria and Albert Museums, this book is lavishly illustrated but poorly organized.

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